Silver and Gold: The Streets and Churches of Mexico

Dear all,

It seems utterly odd to think that I have now been in Mexico for almost two weeks. This week has been significantly more frustrating on the Spanish end as I struggle to communicate with those around me. Happily, everyone here is really encouraging and patient (for which I am utterly grateful).

This past Friday, after classes, I ate a quick lunch at my house and then journeyed back to my school for salsa dancing lessons. What fun! While I'm fairly convinced that I will never have the hips or attitude of local Mexicans, a gringa can always try. Saturday I went with my Mexican family to their other house in a small pueblo about thirty minutes away. The house and surrounding land is absolutely gorgeous, and I had a lovely time swimming and stuffing myself with delicious quesadillas. YUM!!! Then, on Sunday, my Mexican mother, sister and I went for a day excursion to Taxco, the silver capital of Mexico. MUY PELIGROSO (very dangerous)! Taxco is a beautiful historic town on the 'falda' (literally 'skirt' or side) of a mountain. White houses with red tile roofs and black lettering line narrow, twisting roads. Balconies cascade with flowers. The plaza is filled with people selling everything imaginable, including fried potatoes with hot sauce. On one side of the plaza is the sixteenth century church built by the Borda family, founders of the town. Every wall inside the church is covered with ornate gold sculptures and paintings. I could go on and on to describe the smells and tastes. We took breaks in a local cafe and restaurant where we sat on balconies overlooking the town. It was an absolutely magical day.

I am increasingly interested by the role of religion here in Mexico. The vast majority of people here are Catholic, a result of the Spanish influence. For some it is a truly real and powerful faith. For many others, it is an integral part of their culture that informs traditions but does not substantially challenge the status quo or induce significant change in people's lives. The devision between Catholics and 'Christians' is deeply felt here as many see the Catholic church as loosing members to more recent and more modern protestant movements.

Also interesting are the conflicting sentiments regarding the Catholic Church's influence in the colonization of Mexico and the abuse of indigenous groups here. Everywhere, one can see the mixing of indigenous beliefs and practices with the Catholic faith. Paintings on Cathedral walls have skulls and particular flowers important to the indigenous. During the colonial age when many indigenous people were forced to join the church, they often hid statues of their gods under the altar or inside a crucifix. They pretended to pray to to the Catholic God, all the while directing their prayers to their god hidden inside.

I find all of this both thoroughly interesting and terribly disturbing. One of my teachers told me yesterday that she could not believe in a religion that dismissed her culture. By many here, the church (particularly the Catholic church) is seen as a political entity as much as a religious one. People recognize the influence of the Catholic church in impressing one set of cultural values (those of the Spaniards) and seeking to destroy others (those of the indigenous people). They resent the church for that.

I begin to think about the final command of Christ, 'Go therefore and make disciples of all nations, baptizing them in the name of the Father and the Son and the Holy Spirit' (Matt 28: 19). And then the words of Paul, 'There is neither Jew nor Greek, there is neither slave nor free man, there is neither male nor female for you are all one in Christ Jesus' (Gal 3:28). Why has the church so often come with the gospel in one hand and the greedy desire to conquer in the other? Was it not the example of Christ to come not as a conquering hero but as a humble carpenter? Did he not abandon his 'heavenly culture' for that of earth? How far we have strain! As I have often commented, the church and believers are different from God and faith. But I am impressed here by what an influence the church and believers can have on people's willingness to know the God or embrace the faith.

I feel burdened here that the Church (both Catholic and Protestant) must repent for the ways it has distorted the good news of a humble servant God who did not come seeking earthly gain, but gave all that we might live. Heavy on my heart are the questions of how to have relevant ministries that embrace and celebrate the diversity of cultures in this world with humility.
I do love it here. Every day is a mini-adventure of new discoveries. Happily I have managed to avoid more adventures with birds or rutas (though I did wait for a routa that went to the centro for 40 minutes yesterday ... it's not like the centro is out of the way or unpopular so I'm not sure why it took so long). I love hearing from you all so please do continue to write when you can. A quick update and thanks to you all: my grandmother seems to have recovered nicely for which I am very grateful.

Big hugs to you all,

- Katrina
PS - More funnies: A few days ago when trying to remember the word for head (cabeza), I called my head cerveza (beer) evoking great laughs all around. A friend at the school when trying to say 'pecado mortal' (a mortal sin) said instead 'pescado mortal' (mortal fish). Hope you enjoy these little foibles.